Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Boyne Mountain Resort

Even uncooperative weather couldn’t sap the fun factor from our summer vacation at Boyne Mountain resort. In fact, there were so many things to do, it was hard to fit them all in during our July trip up north.
There were ziplines  and sunset chairlift rides, beaches and outdoor pools — and  a water park and spa treatments when it rained. During our three-day stay, our family still didn’t squeeze in kayaking, tennis, golf or mountain biking. We could relate to the spandex-spangled 60-something phoning home from the lobby to report, “I’ll be home when I run out of things to do.” Decked out in mountain biking attire worthy of a Tour de France contestant, he had clearly just come in from a run down the mountain. Bikers ride a chairlift up and careen down steep trails.

Thirty miles south of the Victorian resort town of Petoskey on Lake Michigan, the 470-room resort is popular with the winter ski crowd, carrying up to 22,650 skiers and snowboarders per hour up a 1,120-foot mountain, laced with 60 trails and 10 chairlifts. Built in 1947, Boyne features a 1-mile run and logs an impressive 140-inch average snowfall — great for tubing, cross country skiing and snowshoeing, sleigh rides and ice skating. When the snow melts, prices drop and there are bargains to be found.

We stayed in one of the resort’s newest accommodations, the Grand Lodge, a timbered Swiss-Austrian ski lodge decorated in vintage ski posters, knotty pine woodwork and Bavarian prints. Its classic ski lodge vibe begins in the lobby with a behemoth stone hearth beneath a soaring timbered vault. Set amid the village at the base of the mountain, it is surrounded by pools, hot tubs, restaurants — Pierson’s Grille, Trophy Room Pub — and a host of shops.

Built to stand up to the hearty ski crowd, it’s great for families. We stayed in a family suite (two- and three-bedroom options) with fully equipped kitchen, dining area, fireplace and balcony overlooking the pool and mountain. The lodge connects to the waterpark — convenient in winter. This mom hit the spa while the boys hit the waterslides, wave pool and lazy river at Avalanche Bay.
The afternoon at the spa was bliss after the 208-mile drive north. The lavender sea-salt scrub, hydrotherapy soak and massage proved so relaxing, I could hardly get it together for dinner at the Beach Club set on Deer Lake.

 We found the scallops garnished with morel mushrooms and crème fraiche rich and savory, and while the batter seemed a little thick on the pecan crusted whitefish, a salad of dried cherries, apple, pecans champagne vinaigrette was decidedly refreshing. One evening we took the chairlift up to the Eagles Nest for burgers atop the mountain (great views, but no air conditioning). 

 Our teen liked the chewy sundried tomato pizza at the pub — and got a great kick out of biker night when a host of Harleys descended on the place. Everyone looked forward to breakfast at Everett’s in the main lodge: blueberry pancakes and cinnamon dusted French toast. We ventured off-site one day and drove four miles into Boyne City to lunch at Red Mesa Grille for a fish taco, enchilada, fajitas and struck it lucky on $3 margarita Tuesday. Follow the Boyne City Road around Lake Charlevoix  along Lake Michigan coastal route 31 into Petoskey for a good rainy day side trip. Stop at historic Bay View, a Victorian-era Methodist Chatauqua encampment boasting one of the best collections of Carpenter Gothic architecture in the country and expansive Lake Michigan views. This trip, we opted for the back road through Hemingway’s childhood summer home town of Walloon Lake.

During the summer season, the resort hosts hayrides, bonfires, fishing on the pond, a dam tour, outdoor movies in an amphitheater, free chair lift rides and family lawn games. Our teen was most impressed by the exhilarating ride on the zip lines. As was his mom. It was a memorable, action-packed mini-escape — and just the ticket for families.

Petoskey: Hemingway Country

Up the coast from the Leelanau Peninsula on Highway 31 in Michigan find vintage 19th-century summer resort towns of the Victorians, Petoskey and the old Methodist encampment of Bay View.
The nation's first summer Chautauqua arts and lecture series began here in 1887. Today, the Bay View summer arts series runs through August, which includes opera, chamber music and lectures.
We visited Stafford's Bay View inn on our honeymoon. Stafford's
Lit types take note: This is serious Hemingway country. The family has owned a cottage on Walloon Lake here for five generations, and it is here Hemingway wrote "Big Two Hearted River." Locals marked Hemingway haunts, the places he summered and drank - copiously it appears by the number of plaques in pubs. Try the Perry Hotel at Bay and Lewis, where the Michigan Hemingway Society gathers to toast Papa.

If You Go
The local historical museum has an Ernest Hemingway exhibit chronicling the 22 summers the author spent here on Walloon Lake. www.petoskey.com; 231-347-2620.

FISHTOWN: LELAND

Just up the road from the Sleeping Bear Dunes and The Homestead Resort lie the fishing village of Leland. At the weathered wharf dock, the Mishe Mokwa ferry has set sail for South Manitou Island since 1918. The ferry leaves the wharf at 9 a.m. and returns 4 p.m. daily through Labor Day.
At the town's historic Fishtown center, the wharves are lined with fishing shanties, pubs and restaurants - try Great Lakes perch and whitefish at the Cove. 
Follow M-22 up the coast to the old lumbering ports of Northport and Suttons Bay, artists' enclaves now home to summer arts and wine festivals. There are 15 vineyards on the route; try Good Harbor Vineyards Trillium, named after a rare local wildflower that blooms in profusion in northern Michigan's cool forests. M-22 ends in Traverse City, Michigan's most populous "up north" town.
In summer, this city is crazy-congested; a six-lane highway runs through town and its shores are lined with fast food,
chain motels and souvenir stands. Head north on Route 37 up the picturesque Old Mission Peninsula, another vineyard mecca, which divides Grand Traverse Bay into East and West bays, and hike the lighthouse trail.


If You Go

Leland: Fishing village and shops, restaurants at Fishtown, the village's historic center where the Mishe Mokwa ferry sets sail for North and South Manitou Island from the Leland wharf daily through Labor Day. $29, $15 for kids. Pack a picnic, no restaurants on the island.

Tourism information: www.leelandmi.com; 231-256-0079.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Butterflies and snowstorms




Admit it. We're all too ready for spring. We've seen over 100 inches of snow this winter at the Lake Michigan house and are done, done, done shoveling and scattering salt.
It's high time for bird feeders, planting tomatoes.
Fighting a bad case of cabin fever, took the teen up to Meijer Gardens in Grand Rapids, Michigan to soak up the tropical vibe of palm fronds, balmy breezes, waterfalls -- and hundreds of technicolor butterflies.
Don't miss the ethereal Chihuly glass sculpture.
Magical. Ready to toss back a mojito by day's end.












Friday, January 7, 2011

Sand snowmen, St. Pete art on the beach

Lovely Christmas break in St. Pete/Tampa area over holidays. Barefoot beach walks, Beach o'clock (rotating mojito/pina colada/margaritas), and bayfront art museum.
My kids loved the glass sculpture and modern art -- especially neon installations. I

fell for a painting that looks like Manet or Hassam.
Quiet New Year's Eve watching fireworks over Tampa Bay. Perfect right up to the tangerine tropical sunrise on the first day of 2011 as we drove out of the perfect 70s beach weather, to icy Tennessee up to frigid Great Lakes -- 60 degree drop in one car trip. brrr.





Friday, January 19, 2007

Alice in Operaland

The Cincinnati Opera invites children ages five to 12 to join Alice in Wonderland for a journey down the rabbit hole to meet characters from opera’s greatest hits 10:30 a.m. Feb. 24. Tickets: $3 by calling 241-2742 or www.cincinnatiopera.com. At Memorial Hall, 1241 Elm St.

Madcap mayhem at museum

Do your kids love puppets? The marvelous Madcap Puppets are doing a performance on Saturday and Sunday about two young explorers who find a trunk with a secret and magical long lost stories. The show is at 11:30 & 1:30 Saturday. Call 271-ARTS for tickets.