FISHTOWN: LELAND

Just up the road from the Sleeping Bear Dunes and The Homestead Resort lie the fishing village of Leland. At the weathered wharf dock, the Mishe Mokwa ferry has set sail for South Manitou Island since 1918. The ferry leaves the wharf at 9 a.m. and returns 4 p.m. daily through Labor Day.

At the town's historic Fishtown center, the wharves are lined with fishing shanties, pubs and restaurants - try Great Lakes perch and whitefish at the Cove. 

Follow M-22 up the coast to the old lumbering ports of Northport and Suttons Bay, artists' enclaves now home to summer arts and wine festivals. There are 15 vineyards on the route; try Good Harbor Vineyards Trillium, named after a rare local wildflower that blooms in profusion in northern Michigan's cool forests. M-22 ends in Traverse City, Michigan's most populous "up north" town.

In summer, this city is crazy-congested; a six-lane highway runs through town and its shores are lined with fast food,

chain motels and souvenir stands. Head north on Route 37 up the picturesque Old Mission Peninsula, another vineyard mecca, which divides Grand Traverse Bay into East and West bays, and hike the lighthouse trail.

If You Go

Leland: Fishing village and shops, restaurants at Fishtown, the village's historic center where the Mishe Mokwa ferry sets sail for North and South Manitou Island from the Leland wharf daily through Labor Day. $29, $15 for kids. Pack a picnic, no restaurants on the island.

Tourism information: www.leelandmi.com; 231-256-0079.